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> Trunk Hing Repair, Do I need to drop the engine?
Spoke
post Aug 12 2026, 05:21 AM
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Trunk hing repair is in my future. Question: Do I need to drop the engine or can I do this with the engine in place?

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Superhawk996
post Aug 12 2026, 06:51 AM
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It all depends on exactly how it broke, how you want to repair it, and how much you enjoy working upside down in confined spaces.

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GregAmy
post Aug 12 2026, 07:10 AM
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We installed these with the engine still installed...

https://www.jwestengineering.com/914-Rear-T...-EACH_p_17.html
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burlybryan
post Aug 12 2026, 08:09 AM
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Mine was the same way. Original mounting plate had torn and someone "fixed" it with sheet metal screws and booger welds. Fortunately my engine is out and I've replaced it with the JWest hinges. My buddy replaced his with the engine in car, so it is possible with some acrobatics.
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Spoke
post Aug 12 2026, 10:23 AM
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Forgot how much a pain the torsion spring was to get it out of the way.

The mount is pretty buggered up. Will need some TLC to get back to it's original shape.

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Artfrombama
post Aug 12 2026, 10:37 AM
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*Keep those hinges and rollers oiled*
I was able to reweld my right side hinge after releasing the torsion rod with a deep well 10mm socket and a 12" extension.
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Spoke
post Aug 12 2026, 10:46 AM
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QUOTE(Artfrombama @ Aug 12 2026, 12:37 PM) *

*Keep those hinges and rollers oiled*
I was able to reweld my right side hinge after releasing the torsion rod with a deep well 10mm socket and a 12" extension.


Thanks. Haven't figured out how to re-hang the arm after rewelding because the torsion bar contacts the post on the arm.
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Superhawk996
post Aug 12 2026, 12:07 PM
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That’s a bit harder fix with the bracket that stressed and ripped up. Was hoping you had something less catastrophic.

If it were me, I’d replace with new RD sheetmetal mount and remove engine. There’s almost always something else productive (valve adjust, seals, or general cleanup) that can be done easier while engine is out.
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friethmiller
post Aug 12 2026, 01:06 PM
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Yeah, I'd drop the engine, remove what remains, and weld in a new RD hinge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) It is a great opportunity to do other stuff that's too hard to do with the engine in the way.
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930cabman
post Aug 12 2026, 06:24 PM
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QUOTE(friethmiller @ Aug 12 2026, 01:06 PM) *

Yeah, I'd drop the engine, remove what remains, and weld in a new RD hinge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) It is a great opportunity to do other stuff that's too hard to do with the engine in the way.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

and it gives you time to enjoy your "new 930"
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TRP
post Aug 12 2026, 06:31 PM
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I had to do my passenger side about a year ago when I bought my car. I created a spring tool from a 10" crescent wrench. Not the 8"... use the 10".

The first time I did it the motor was in the car. My hinge was in the same shape as the one above so I went jwest on it. I managed to get it almost perfect, but it needed to go down and back about 1/4 of an inch. I perfected the install when my motor was out. Holy Cow was that 100xs easier with the motor out. I almost did the driver's side at the same time, but I figured if it ain't broke...

YMMV

When I bought it:
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Almost perfect:
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Today (after being able to adjust it from 'in' the engine bay:
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Hard to tell the difference but it matches the drivers side. One is OEM the other is Jwest.

Ted
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Luke M
post Aug 12 2026, 07:17 PM
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Looks like you need the special tool for the tension rods.
I purchased one of the tools years ago from Mark at Original Customs.
I wouldn't do that job without that tool now. I've done it before just like you are doing now with the wrench and an extension on a deep socket.

I've had that spring snap out of the socket it's not fun and super dangerous.

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