Valve Adjustment Question(s), This task feels more like an art than a science. Options

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

I'm still a newbee on valve adjustments. I have a 73 2.0 (2056).

I've watched Ian's video a dozen or more times. His engine is on a stand the heads are vertical. My engine is in my car so my heads are horizontal. I'm trying to get a feel for how much drag my feeler gauge should have between the valve adjuster screw and the valve stem.

Should the feeler gauge be able to drop through the gap without forcing it through the gap?

Or should it be able to pass through the gap if pushed, but stay "stuck" in the gap without being pushed?

Should there be any bend in the feller gauge to push it through?

[Chad911sc]

It should be able to pass through the gap with minimal effort, no binding. Should just feel the drag of both opposing sides.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

It should be able to pass through the gap with minimal effort, no binding. Should just feel the drag of both opposing sides.

@Chad911sc That's helpful. Thank you.

However, I would still like this question answered to get more precise with the adjustments:

If I'm lying on my back under the car and I place the feeler gauge in the gap and let go, should it fall through OR stay in the gap because it's touching both the valve adjuster screw on one side and the valve stem on the other?

[fiacra]

I'm still a newbee on valve adjustments. I have a 73 2.0 (2056).

I've watched Ian's video a dozen or more times. His engine is on a stand the heads are vertical. My engine is in my car so my heads are horizontal. I'm trying to get a feel for how much drag my feeler gauge should have between the valve adjuster screw and the valve stem.

Should the feeler gauge be able to drop through the gap without forcing it through the gap?

Or should it be able to pass through the gap if pushed, but stay "stuck" in the gap without being pushed?

Should there be any bend in the feller gauge to push it through?

I remember how confusing this was the first time I did it on my VW back in the '80s. It is even more difficult on the 914, but it's basically the same technique. Yes, you want a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you pass it through. This does take a bit of feel, but once you feel it you will know what it is. You should not have to force the feeler and it should not get stuck. Remember it is better to be a bit too loose than to be too tight. I use a straight feeler, but you do have to deflect/bend it a bit to get it to go in. It is tight in there so I'm not sure using a feeler with a bent tip is any easier. If I need to, I mark the tin on the underside so I'm not going to get disoriented when I'm under the engine.

I know you didn't ask about any of this.... but apparently here I go anyway! I have a scissor lift so that makes the job easier, but up on jack stands works as well. I use a modified version of the Kap'n method that was taught to me by another member who owns a independent Porsche repair shop. I use a remote starter to turn the engine (transmission in neutral, ignition off). If the valve on one side of the engine is opening then you can adjust the same valve on the other side of the engine as it will be closed. For example, if the exhaust valve is opening ("rocking" as the Kap'n says) on cylinder #4 then you can adjust the exhaust valve on cylinder #2, and so on. I slide around under the car on a creeper, but that is optional although it is more comfortable. It can be a bit more moving back and forth from side to side to do it this way, but I find it easy to do. For me it is certainly easier than trying to move the engine with the wheel, or with the fan, and having to keep popping out from under the car. Also there is just more room with the rear wheels off. The nice thing about working on your own car for the satisfaction of doing it is that you never have to feel in a rush, so whatever technique you use is great as long as it works. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT: just saw your follow up question. There should be enough friction so that the weight of the feeler gauge will likely cause the feeler to slowly slide out but it should not fall out. I will say that feeling the amount of friction as you slide the feeler gauge is a more accurate way of judging proper adjustment. Don't forget that you will have some tension on the feeler from having deflected/bent it to get in to the gap so as soon as you let go that tension will likely keep the feeler from falling out. It is all a matter of practice and the only way to get the proper feel for it is to do it. I think you'll figure it out rather quickly once you start doing it.

[fixer34]

Art/science ?? About 50-50. It is an acquired 'touch'.

You should not have force the correct gauge to slide thru.
use a gauge .001 or .002 larger to check it isn't too loose. That one SHOULD be hard to side thru

[Ninja]

Art/science ?? About 50-50. It is an acquired 'touch'.

You should not have force the correct gauge to slide thru.
use a gauge .001 or .002 larger to check it isn't too loose. That one SHOULD be hard to side thru

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Use 3 feeler gauges.

-.001 under should be floppy loose.
Correct should slide with light force.
+.001 should be a FIGHT to get in.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Thanks for the insights guys.

I’m good on the steps for getting the set of valves on each cylinder ready to adjust. I know there are shortcuts (e.g., Kristy method) and will consider those in the future.

Right now I’m focused on mastering the feeler gauge and accurately adjusting the screws.

[emerygt350]

Thanks for the insights guys.

I’m good on the steps for getting the set of valves on each cylinder ready to adjust. I know there are shortcuts (e.g., Kristy method) and will consider those in the future.

Right now I’m focused on mastering the feeler gauge and accurately adjusting the screws.

And know that method/cam position is critical. If you don't use the krusty method, make sure you are super confident the valves are doing what you think they are doing.

[porschetub]

It should be able to pass through the gap with minimal effort, no binding. Should just feel the drag of both opposing sides.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I call it a "sliding fit " ,if you are new to it set them then do it again and check your results ,the angled feeler gauges are better IMO easier to use ,good luck ,cheers .

[Jack Standz]

We use either a remote starter to "bump" the flywheel into the correct position or a 21/22 (?) mm box end wrench on the alternator fastener to move the cam into the correct spot for each valve adjustment. But, you do it your way.

Short answer is valve adjustments on cams with lots of valve overlap can be more finicky than a stock cammed motor.

You don't have to be perfectly at TDC, etc., particularly for a stock cam, just off the lobe of the cam and completely on its heel. However, there is a problem when you have lots of valve overlap to make sure the valve you are adjusting is fully closed. In other words, some positions on some cams have valve open at TDC and/or BDC. Of course it's another (and more difficult to fix) problem to make sure your cam is properly indexed, but let's plan to build your motor so that it is and you get all your money's worth with the cam you're running.

On the aluminum pushrods we have in our 2056, we set the adjustment/lash at .006". If a .007" feeler gauge (or even an .008") won't fit, but .006" will with a slight drag, you are where you need to be. As mentioned, a little loose is better than too tight.