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> L-Jet Injectors Aren't Getting Ground, L-Jet Injectors
nmkimosabe
post Mar 21 2026, 09:44 AM
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After a thorough investigation, it appears that the injectors are not getting ground to fire properly on my 1974 1.8L. Maybe it's an air flow sensor issue but not sure. All the other wiring seems to be okay. I would appreciate any thoughts from the knowledgeable folks on this forum. Thank you.
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JeffBowlsby
post Mar 21 2026, 09:58 AM
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Check the schematic for these circuits. LJet injectors do not ground directly, they go through the resistor pack (look for broken wires) and then to the double relay.





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fiacra
post Mar 21 2026, 12:15 PM
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Jeff is the expert here so I'd start with what he recommended. Along those lines, have you tried swapping out the dual relay? I think you said you had the original metal can relay in your car. I'm happy to lend you a NIB dual relay for a test if you wish. You should have a back up relay anyway so you are not wasting money by ordering a new one. However for testing purposes I can get you one quicker than you'll be able to get from JBugs or any other supplier. Happy to put it in today's mail if you get back to me quickly.
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 21 2026, 04:19 PM
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QUOTE(fiacra @ Mar 21 2026, 11:15 AM) *

Jeff is the expert here so I'd start with what he recommended. Along those lines, have you tried swapping out the dual relay? I think you said you had the original metal can relay in your car. I'm happy to lend you a NIB dual relay for a test if you wish. You should have a back up relay anyway so you are not wasting money by ordering a new one. However for testing purposes I can get you one quicker than you'll be able to get from JBugs or any other supplier. Happy to put it in today's mail if you get back to me quickly.



I took your advice earlier this week and bought one per the SKU's and photos you posted. I won't get it until Wednesday, but my mechanic thinks mine if okay. I am also buying another resister pack in case mine is bad. I really appreciate your offer to send me a loaner! I will keep you posted as we solve this issue. Best to you.
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 21 2026, 04:25 PM
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QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Mar 21 2026, 08:58 AM) *

Check the schematic for these circuits. LJet injectors do not ground directly, they go through the resistor pack (look for broken wires) and then to the double relay.


@JeffBowlsby
Thanks Jeff for taking the time to send the schematic and your thoughts. I've read many of your articles since I bought this car last Spring. I will print this out and review with my mechanic on Monday and get back to you. We've checked all the wiring, AFM plug and flap, vacuum lines, dual relay, dwell, coil but can't seem to get the injectors to ground and per your article they don't. It has normal fuel pressure and will start briefly at times but won't continue running. I will order a new resistor pack as mine might be the problem. Thanks Jeff.
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 22 2026, 10:42 AM
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QUOTE(nmkimosabe @ Mar 21 2026, 03:25 PM) *

QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Mar 21 2026, 08:58 AM) *

Check the schematic for these circuits. LJet injectors do not ground directly, they go through the resistor pack (look for broken wires) and then to the double relay.


@JeffBowlsby
Thanks Jeff for taking the time to send the schematic and your thoughts. I've read many of your articles since I bought this car last Spring. I will print this out and review with my mechanic on Monday and get back to you. We've checked all the wiring, AFM plug and flap, vacuum lines, dual relay, dwell, coil but can't seem to get the injectors to ground and per your article they don't. It has normal fuel pressure and will start briefly at times but won't continue running. I will order a new resistor pack as mine might be the problem. Thanks Jeff.


@JeffBowlsby
Jeff---in case you didn't see the earlier thread, the car ran fine and the next day it coughed and died. It will start a few seconds and then stop, Fuel pressure is okay, dwell is at 50 degrees, AFM appears okay but hard to know if the potentiometer is working correctly, negative coil wire is good, don't see any visible wire breaks in harness, dual relay appears fine but need to further test the resistor pack. So the mechanic's response was there is no ground at the injectors, so they are not activating.
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Superhawk996
post Mar 22 2026, 11:16 AM
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QUOTE(nmkimosabe @ Mar 21 2026, 06:25 PM) *

I will order a new resistor pack as mine might be the problem. Thanks Jeff.

Not trying to start a whole (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) show but your mechanic should not be guessing and throwing parts at it blindly.

If your injectors are not grounding that ought to be addressed.

The injectors are switched ground via the ECU.

The resistor pack is on the +12v side. The resistor pack has nothing to do with grounding.

Has your mechanic verified power to ECU (pin 10) and grounds to the ECU (pins 5,16,17,35) ?
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 22 2026, 12:55 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Mar 22 2026, 10:16 AM) *

QUOTE(nmkimosabe @ Mar 21 2026, 06:25 PM) *

I will order a new resistor pack as mine might be the problem. Thanks Jeff.

Not trying to start a whole (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) show but your mechanic should not be guessing and throwing parts at it blindly.

If your injectors are not grounding that ought to be addressed.

The injectors are switched ground via the ECU.

The resistor pack is on the +12v side. The resistor pack has nothing to do with grounding.

Has your mechanic verified power to ECU (pin 10) and grounds to the ECU (pins
5,16,17,35) ?


@Superhawk996
I honestly don't know but will ask him about your suggestions on Monday and let you know. I appreciaate your feedback!
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Superhawk996
post Mar 22 2026, 01:24 PM
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Just beware - lots of mechanics are basically learning about 914’s on your dime while charging $100+ per hour diagnostics.

I realize not everyone wants to work on your car yourself but paying mechanics to guess gets expensive.

Jeff Bowlsby has an abundance of tech info on his site including factory documentation and wiring diagrams on L-jet. If your mechanic doesn’t have access to wiring diagrams he’s wasting your time and money.
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 22 2026, 02:11 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Mar 22 2026, 12:24 PM) *

Just beware - lots of mechanics are basically learning about 914’s on your dime while charging $100+ per hour diagnostics.

I realize not everyone wants to work on your car yourself but paying mechanics to guess gets expensive.

Jeff Bowlsby has an abundance of tech info on his site including factory documentation and wiring diagrams on L-jet. If your mechanic doesn’t have access to wiring diagrams he’s wasting your time and money.


@Superhawk996
I totally understand. While I'm capable of doing basic maintenance, the electrical components of this car are above my pay grade to be honest. I am slowly learning more as I go and from folks like you on the forum. Appreciate your insights.
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 31 2026, 05:07 PM
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Here's an update on my 914 and unfortunately, I still can't get it to run. I had the car towed to my mechanic who spent 2 days on it and $600.00 later told me he couldn't figure it out and I wound up towing my car back home. I've done the following:
>Replaced the air flow meter and cleaned the plug
>Looked for broken wires throughout the engine bay at least 3 times
>Replaced the dual relay
>Replaced the resistor pack
>Made sure the plugs on the injectors were nice and tight
>Cleaned and checked the coil wires
>Cleaned the relay board but the 1.8 only has 1 relay in there
>Checked for fuel pressure --- at 30psi
Next step is to review all the pins in the ECU connector to hopefully find the fault. When I first put the new Air Flow Meter on the car yesterday it ran briefly, maybe 10 seconds and then died. I was hoping that I had found the fix but no luck. I would welcome any further advice, tips and prayers that would prove beneficial.
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JeffBowlsby
post Mar 31 2026, 05:41 PM
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L-Jet is one of the early EFI systems, common in the mid-1970s to many cars, not that hard to understand, here are some references. I would encourage you to follow a methodical troubleshooting process to locate the problem. Test each component individually. Its not likely the ECU:

https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man12.pdf

Here are other references if you need the theory of operation:

https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man07.pdf
https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man08.pdf
https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man15.pdf
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nmkimosabe
post Mar 31 2026, 06:44 PM
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QUOTE(JeffBowlsby @ Mar 31 2026, 04:41 PM) *

L-Jet is one of the early EFI systems, common in the mid-1970s to many cars, not that hard to understand, here are some references. I would encourage you to follow a methodical troubleshooting process to locate the problem. Test each component individually. Its not likely the ECU:

https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man12.pdf

Here are other references if you need the theory of operation:

https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man07.pdf
https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man08.pdf
https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Man15.pdf


@JeffBowlsby
Thanks for all the great info and I will put together a game plan but I am starting without a lot of knowledge which makes it more challenging. But with input like this and other members of the forum I will get there. Thank you.
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Superhawk996
post Mar 31 2026, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE(nmkimosabe @ Mar 31 2026, 07:07 PM) *
. I had the car towed to my mechanic who spent 2 days on it and $600.00 later told me he couldn't figure it out and I wound up towing my car back home.

Automotive repair has become such a clown show.

I’m not an expert on L-jet, but you’ll find guys here that are. Review all the tech info you can find on Jeff’s site.

Per Jeff’s comment you need to be methodical. Keep notes. Don’t assume.

Learn to use a digital multimeter via you tube. You will need it to troubleshoot effectively and to verify wiring. As you’ve discovered visual inspections and parts swapping are not usually effective troubleshooting techniques.

Here to help as I can and I’m sure others will do so too.

You’ve been vague about what the actual symptoms are. Maybe start from scratch and describe exactly what it is or isn’t doing.

Do you know if the fuel pump is running properly once the engine starts? you mention it starting and running for maybe 10 seconds? I see the mention of 30 psi but not sure if that is staying 30 psi once the car starts or sputters?

Lay out exactly what is going on.
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