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> engine, push rods
Petepat
post Dec 24 2025, 10:01 AM
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Hi, a simple question (maybe!), can you remove/replace the pushrods on a 1.7L engine without having to take the engine out?
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930cabman
post Dec 24 2025, 10:07 AM
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QUOTE(Petepat @ Dec 24 2025, 11:01 AM) *

Hi, a simple question (maybe!), can you remove/replace the pushrods on a 1.7L engine without having to take the engine out?


If I recall correctly, yes

Is there something wrong with the pushrods?
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Jack Standz
post Dec 24 2025, 06:45 PM
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Yes. But in some cases you will likely need to remove some pushrod tubes because the pushrod may not clear the chasis (depending on the type of pushrods, like steel versus stock aluminum, etc.).
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Superhawk996
post Dec 24 2025, 07:56 PM
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IMHO the question isn’t can you . . . But should you.

The 914 as is the case with almost all mid-engine vehicles is not designed to have major work done with the engine in the vehicle. Removing push rods is major work.

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Dave_Darling
post Dec 25 2025, 01:17 AM
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You can, and it's not that hard. With some of them, you have to pull the pushrod tube out of the case and tilt the inboard end downward to slide the pushrod out. Those are ones that won't come all the way out because the suspension console is in the way.

--DD
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Petepat
post Dec 25 2025, 05:26 AM
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QUOTE(Petepat @ Dec 24 2025, 11:01 AM) *

Hi, a simple question (maybe!), can you remove/replace the pushrods on a 1.7L engine without having to take the engine out?


Thanks guys for your feedback, it's very helpful and I ask because my mechanic when adjusting the tappets for me said that he thought one pushrod might be a little bent because he couldn't get the right gap. There also seems to be a clanking noise on starting up which goes after a minute or less, sounds dodgy to me?
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fixer34
post Dec 25 2025, 07:00 PM
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Not dodgy, but not correct either. I think a pushrod would have to be bent quite a bit to not allow the valve gap to be set. The clanking on startup is a bit more worrisome. By some chance were hydraulic lifters installed in that engine?
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TheCabinetmaker
post Dec 25 2025, 07:35 PM
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QUOTE(fixer34 @ Dec 25 2025, 08:00 PM) *

Not dodgy, but not correct either. I think a pushrod would have to be bent quite a bit to not allow the valve gap to be set. The clanking on startup is a bit more worrisome. By some chance were hydraulic lifters installed in that engine?

This is my thought also
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Petepat
post Dec 26 2025, 10:55 AM
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Thats a very good question, I followed a thread on this site about hydraulic lifters and it sounds very much like the symptoms I have. A simple question (maybe) how can I tell if my engine has HL without taking the engine out?
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Ninja
post Dec 26 2025, 12:48 PM
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I don't believe you can without removing at least one push rod and tube.

At that point you can pull the lifter out and inspect.

This work CAN be done with the engine installed but is a bunch easier with it out.

I did all of my tubes and rods in-chassis as the tube O-rings were trashed and leaking badly. I pulled all of my lifters to inspect for wear/weirdness on both the lifter face and the cam lobe (borescope helps!).

I went back with the normal O-rings but later saw a thread on here for improved O-rings which is how I'd go now. Someone found "lobed" O-rings at McMasters.

I did completely remove the 75 exhaust system. Others have mentioned that they can be done without exhaust removal. I think having the exhaust in the way would increase the difficulty exponentially.

Stupid important to keep all pieces in their original orientation, clocking, and direction.
Start mixing stuff up and Mr. Murphy will kick you in the nuts...

This job is a BUNCH easier on the stand. As an added benefit (or curse!) you will be able to complete a bunch of other "jobs" that may be needed at the same time.


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JamesM
post Dec 26 2025, 02:38 PM
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Yes.

Not much more difficult than a valve adjustment though you do need to remove the heat exchangers.
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