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> Center console clocks
DC_neun_vierzehn
post Nov 22 2025, 05:00 PM
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Does anybody have a working clock in their center console? It seems like everyone clock has died.

I bought a reproduction clock from Auto Atlanta and it broke in less than a year. Complete waste of money.

Has anybody sent their clock to be rebuilt and if so how did it work out?

I think I read somewhere that only 914 clocks with a date stamp of 75 or 76 can be rebuilt as the internals changed?
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Shivers
post Nov 22 2025, 05:26 PM
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This had some info.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=317508
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chmillman
post Nov 23 2025, 02:03 AM
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QUOTE(DC_neun_vierzehn @ Nov 23 2025, 12:00 AM) *

Does anybody have a working clock in their center console? It seems like everyone clock has died.


Mine works and is pretty accurate. As the car is an early ‘74 (Nov.’73), I don’t know if it’s a ‘73 or ‘74 model. I suspect the earlier one.
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914Sixer
post Nov 23 2025, 07:00 AM
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I have 2 clocks with NEW movements. I was going to send them for new plastic faces BUT North Hollywood Speedometer wanted $125 plus parts. That would have made them cost about $250 each, did not think anyone would be interested at that price.
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FlacaProductions
post Nov 23 2025, 10:49 AM
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I have one that is good to go from a NH Speedo restoration but I'm not going to be back around it for a number of weeks.

If I were you, I'd find a Kienzle mechanical (not quartz) version. I have one and love it. It goes CLUNK every 45 seconds or so as the spring winds itself - just like the 914, it's so analog.

Mine is dated 7/72 so it's too "early" for my 74 but it's not a CW car...

(yeah - my CHT temp is a bit high here but that's been dealt with..)Attached Image
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DC_neun_vierzehn
post Nov 30 2025, 11:01 AM
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QUOTE(Shivers @ Nov 22 2025, 06:26 PM) *


Thanks. Good info in that thread.

I took my OG VDO clock apart. Unfortunately for me, it’s not an electrical problem (eg. blown caps or resistors). Mine has multiple bad gears (worm and/broken). I do t think this is DIY. I do t have other clocks to poach parts from.

I’m going to see if one of Mark’s NOS internals can be swapped in.

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930cabman
post Nov 30 2025, 01:25 PM
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Guessin I'm lucky. I have 3 and they all work perfect
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DC_neun_vierzehn
post Nov 30 2025, 01:54 PM
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QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 30 2025, 02:25 PM) *

Guessin I'm lucky. I have 3 and they all work perfect


Are any for sale?

: )
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didenpx
post Nov 30 2025, 03:14 PM
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Volvo had small diameter clocks made by vdo in the early-mid 80s. When they fail it’s typically just the caps. Has anyone tried using the guts of one of these with the 914 face?
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930cabman
post Nov 30 2025, 07:52 PM
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QUOTE(DC_neun_vierzehn @ Nov 30 2025, 02:54 PM) *

QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 30 2025, 02:25 PM) *

Guessin I'm lucky. I have 3 and they all work perfect


Are any for sale?

: )


The 3 are in running driving cars, I will check tomorrow to see if I have a spare
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DC_neun_vierzehn
post Dec 1 2025, 11:20 AM
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So while I had my busted clock out I decided to install a new console wiring harness (fabricated by @Puebloswatcop ) because mine looked rather brittle. Great craftsmanship. It was a simple swap out - my car still had the original main wiring harness plugs in the tunnel area where the console wiring harness connects.

I have a working VDO quartz clock from an 80s VW (I believe), that I was going to use until I find a proper 914 clock (or possibly replace with an oil pressure gauge eventually). When I put power on the 80s VW VDO clock directly from the battery it works. But when I plug the clock into the console gauge wiring in the it does not work.

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So I broke out the multi-meter. When I test the console harness clock power and ground wires with a multi-meter, it's not reading any power (with the ignition key "on" or "off"). For the clock it should be powered "on" regardless of the key's position. The other two gauges (temp and volt) work as they should (power only when the ignition is "on") and test perfectly with the multimeter.

Next I tested the clock power wire (black) from the main harness where it plugs into the console gauge harness above the tunnel (under the bottom of the console). It was hard to get the multimeter on the metal connectors in those original plastic connection plugs, but I think I was able to make contact to test. The multimeter showed no power on the main harness black power wire and brown ground).

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I thought I would consult with the group ...

What is my next move?

Is there another place where I can test it for power further up stream?

Is I possible the metal connectors inside the plastic housing are corroded or wiring broken? Should I break the plastic housing open to inspect (knowing I will then need to put two new female connectors on using shrink wrap over each since of those 2 connections since I will no longer have the plastic housing)?
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rfinegan
post Dec 1 2025, 01:50 PM
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My clock is correct 2 times a day!
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