Great custom Exhaust deal, Stainless setup for cheap Options

[ri914]

While gathering parts for the LS6 swap I used Amazon and eBay to get some exhaust supplies. It amazes me what 240$ was able to collect.

Amazon had a full stainless mandrel bent kit for around 150 delivered. Enough to do 3 or 4 cars. A pair of coated stainless mufflers for 42$ and an x pipe for 22.50? I swear the last time I bought a mandrel bent pipe it was probably 40$ for 1 piece?

Anyway just thought I would share this info. A lot of people need help with exhausts. This seems like a great deal. ( beware, some sell the same kit for over 500$ )




actual current add


my kit with mufflers and x pipe

[Andyrew]

I'm surprised how few people go stainless over standard aluminized steel.

I went with stainless 3" exhaust for my 1.8t conversion. 3" and probably only increased my cost by 50%. Two 3" mandrel bent J pipes ($45)and two 3" stainless resonators($40) and that was it. Spent $35 for a small spool of stainless wire and it was enough to do the exhaust and all my coolant pipes and intercooler joiners which was also stainless.

It welds almost exactly like standard mig wire.

[mepstein]

There are different grades of stainless. We had some cheap 911 headers at the shop and they weren't rusty but almost. Ben could probably write pages on the subject.

@MB911

[Mueller]

I'm surprised how few people go stainless over standard aluminized steel.

I went with stainless 3" exhaust for my 1.8t conversion. 3" and probably only increased my cost by 50%. Two 3" mandrel bent J pipes ($45)and two 3" stainless resonators($40) and that was it. Spent $35 for a small spool of stainless wire and it was enough to do the exhaust and all my coolant pipes and intercooler joiners which was also stainless.

It welds almost exactly like standard mig wire.

Do you have to back fill when MIG welding it?

[Superhawk996]

Just a side note looking at the picture. Those "mufflers" aren't going to do squat for a LS in terms of noise. You're typically looking for 5-10 times the engine displacment for an effective muffler that will flow sufficient volume and still offer opportunity for baffling and noise suppression.

Personally, those look to me like resonators that would be used to "tune" a system for tone.

I'll leave final word to Ben on back purge but in my opinion it is best practice for stainless. If you don't you'll get oxide and "sugaring" on the backside of the weld heat affected zone that will eventually compromise it. I'd bet there are exceptions but if you're going to do the work, why risk it?

[Superhawk996]

delete - duplicate post by accident

[Mark Henry]

It's likely 409 stainless, which is OK, better than plain steel, but it will rust sort of like a like a brown patina. once sorted I'd recommend getting it ceramic coated. Look for the welded seam, you want to try to face it upwards. Easy to tell 409 from 304 as the 409 is magnetic.

304 is the preferred, it turns a bit blue but it stays shiny. Non-magnetic, but areas near bends an welds become magnetic, always check on straight or flat areas.

[mb911]

I could provide a kit like that but would likely cost twice but it would be 304 and made here.

[Mikey914]

304 will brown, 316 is best if you want a show exhaust.
The materials are relatively cheap. The value is in a bolt on solution.

[ri914]

I will test the pipes with a magnet tomorrow. I think the description said 304.

Any suggestions on a good muffler? I appreciate all the comments. I went with stainless because every exhaust I built without it had problems.

I figure I will most likely build a few systems before I land on something suitable.

Can anyone reccomend a good heat reflection tape for the hydraulic lines and shifter cables?

[Mark Henry]

Can anyone reccomend a good heat reflection tape for the hydraulic lines and shifter cables?

Aeroquip Fire sleeve.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1497650959_thumb.jpg)

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1497650959_thumb.jpg)

@Mark Henry

Really like that routing tube for the cables. Great Job! I'll copy that with pride someday!

[jd74914]

I'll leave final word to Ben on back purge but in my opinion it is best practice for stainless. If you don't you'll get oxide and "sugaring" on the backside of the weld heat affected zone that will eventually compromise it. I'd bet there are exceptions but if you're going to do the work, why risk it?

In my experience the back purge is makes the welding a bit nicer in areas where is it tough to fully clean grease (or wax) from the mill/forming process.

If you were welding by B31.1/3 (power/process piping) you'd be forced to purge when welding SS tube/pipe. Good rule to follow for hobby stuff since regulators are so cheap and it doesn't take much gas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

I'm surprised how few people go stainless over standard aluminized steel.

I went with stainless 3" exhaust for my 1.8t conversion. 3" and probably only increased my cost by 50%. Two 3" mandrel bent J pipes ($45)and two 3" stainless resonators($40) and that was it. Spent $35 for a small spool of stainless wire and it was enough to do the exhaust and all my coolant pipes and intercooler joiners which was also stainless.

It welds almost exactly like standard mig wire.

Do you have to back fill when MIG welding it?

Mike,

I contemplated it but did not. The insides of the welds look nice and they have certainly got a lot of heat already. No issues.

Side note, I've also welded up some cracked factory welds from a Magnaflow exhaust on my Infiniti. Its been a year and 30k miles with no further leaks. No back purging.


Would I do this to a turbo header? No.... but I dont see any reason not to do it to exhaust.


I'll take a pic of the exhaust on the 914 later.