DIY Bump Steer Kit |
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DIY Bump Steer Kit |
Mr. M |
Feb 22 2020, 08:06 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 16 Joined: 16-May 17 From: Midwest Member No.: 21,111 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I did a search, but I didn't come up with the information that I was looking for, has anyone put together their own bump steer kit? Hoping to find out where people were able to source the parts from or a parts list that they used to make the kit.
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914Sixer |
Feb 22 2020, 10:21 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,863 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Bump steer kits usually consists of two thick spacers that go under the steering rack and longer bolts.
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mepstein |
Feb 22 2020, 10:25 AM
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#3
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,220 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
The $300-400 kits are for when you raise the control arm on the strut.
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914forme |
Feb 22 2020, 11:08 AM
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#4
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
You can do it, by chance you own a metal lathe?
Lots of details in that kit, and I do not like them as a single sheer point. Properly done with another arm welded at the bottom of the strut, to make it a double sheer situation. Oh the leverage going on with that setup. Making the proper bump-steer kit like shown by Mark is easier. I never did it, but thought about it long and hard, is to measure it, setup tests with washers, get the right height with Zero bump steer, and then machine a spacers the proper height. One item of note, I have removed the center rubber steering spacer to get the geometry back in proper place. My last setup, I did that and removed the shaft under the dash, and sectioned it, then welded the tube, ground it down, and added a sleeve. That allowed the U-joints nit to bind under the dash. With out this I got an effort sine Waze going as I turned the car. Last version I was going with the kit much like you see there, but in double sheer. I left the rubber isolator out of the steering. |
Mark Henry |
Feb 22 2020, 11:38 AM
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#5
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
The bigest hurtle is a metric thread ball joint and a couple of machined spacers. You might be able to retap or timesert a SAE balljoint.
I have a 996 here with a kit, it has actual turnbuckles, unfortunately 914 has a much smaller OD and shorter rod. There is a wacky looking kit from elephant, but it's not cheap. How low do you want to go? You can get pretty low without issues with spacers, from there most cut and weld the struts to raise the spindles. |
SirAndy |
Feb 22 2020, 12:31 PM
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#6
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,602 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
Bump steer kits usually consists of two thick spacers that go under the steering rack and longer bolts. Please don't use those. It's the worst way possible to go about correcting the steering geometry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) |
stownsen914 |
Feb 22 2020, 12:41 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 912 Joined: 3-October 06 From: Ossining, NY Member No.: 6,985 Region Association: None |
I'll offer a counter point to the concerns about using spacers and a (semi) long bolt to attach a tie rod to the strut. There isn't THAT much force on a tie rod end, compared to other suspension joints. For a tie rod I'd rather have a single shear bolt as a weak link if a wheel takes a significant hit, and have the bolt bend, rather than having a double shear setup and transmit the entire force to the steering rack.
I've had a single shear setup on my racecar for many years and haven't had a problem yet. I do have a large washer on the outboard end of the rod end joint so it won't pop up in case of damage. |
SirAndy |
Feb 22 2020, 12:57 PM
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#8
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,602 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
I'll offer a counter point to the concerns about using spacers and a (semi) long bolt to attach a tie rod to the strut. There isn't THAT much force on a tie rod end, compared to other suspension joints. For a tie rod I'd rather have a single shear bolt as a weak link if a wheel takes a significant hit, and have the bolt bend, rather than having a double shear setup and transmit the entire force to the steering rack. I've had a single shear setup on my racecar for many years and haven't had a problem yet. I do have a large washer on the outboard end of the rod end joint so it won't pop up in case of damage. Those spacers i was talking about (the ones posted by 914Sixer above) don't go on the tie-rods, they are used to drop the whole steering rack itself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
roblav1 |
Feb 22 2020, 05:36 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 528 Joined: 18-September 12 From: KY Member No.: 14,943 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I believe those spacers raise the steering rack.
Tie rods don't see much force, unless you hit something hard. |
worn |
Feb 22 2020, 06:38 PM
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#10
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,143 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
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914forme |
Feb 22 2020, 09:21 PM
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#11
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
You can do it, by chance you own a metal lathe? They ought to be included with every 914 purchased. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) |
Tdskip |
Feb 23 2020, 08:36 AM
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#12
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,678 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
Bump steer kits usually consists of two thick spacers that go under the steering rack and longer bolts. Please don't use those. It's the worst way possible to go about correcting the steering geometry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) Why. Not arguing, just want to learn. |
914forme |
Feb 23 2020, 11:20 AM
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#13
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
Not sure unless you do not fix all the issues it causes.
Things bind on the steering U-joints if you do not move them around a bit. Or if radical, need to change things like cut and welding the shaft. If you can get it perfect then moving the rack up a bit solves the issue. Much easier solution to change tie rod ends. I am not going to get into the physics off moving the rod location and what that does to the loads applied. I will stick with the extra arm at the bottom and not worry about flex induced into the steering system or the loads it produces. The elephant kit has that lovely extra surround that is there for some reason, my guess is that they found they needed it. Why goto that extra engineering if you don't need to. Heres the kit I use, and like. They also make a basic kit, for a bit less adjustment that is a single sheer setup. |
Mark Henry |
Feb 23 2020, 11:38 AM
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#14
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
There's a huge thread on bump steer in the classics forum, sticky, 2nd from the top, required reading before I'd plop down any cash.
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